The Phenomenon of the ‘Dinner in White’

It seems that all over Italy there are glamorous picnics being organised for balmy summer evenings where everyone wears white and brings food to share. (Nobody explained why it has to be a cena in bianco -dinner in white.) But this is no ordinary picnic. You book in advance because the local community provides tables and chairs (and even sprays the park so that there are no mosquitos) and people bring tablecloths, napkins, different glasses for different wines, candelabras, best china plates, cushions, a vase of flowers as a table decoration,  baskets of fruit…

This civilised scene is enhanced by classical music playing in the background.

On this occasion the music was stopped by an announcement that when the meal was over, we all had to follow a path lit by candles to the other end of the park where we would have an explanation of the sky and its stars that night. (Most people had brought mats so that they could lie down and observe in comfort.)

Of course the talk was in rapid Italian, so after a while we slipped away, only to find that the candles along the path had gone out and we nearly fell in the stream.

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Keeping Cool in the Furnace that is an Italian Summer

In my last post I wrote about the dreadful grey weather in Italy, but now it is the opposite and the question is always how to keep cool. In fact, for the first time ever, I’m quite looking forward to returning to England’s unpredictable but pleasant temperatures.

It has been hovering around 40 degrees for two weeks now, and we creep around on the shady side of the street to do the shopping, then return to drink gallons of water.

The air conditioning in the flat is having to work too hard and is inefficient, and the three fans help, but it isn’t’t comfortable, especially for sleeping.

Luckily, during the day we can go to the luxury pool at Lispida Castle which the owner said we could use in return for an article I wrote. The trouble is, and I shouldn’t grumble, that this pool, like all the pools in the area, is thermal and at the moment it’s simply too warm: like swimming in bath water. Friends stayed in a nearby hotel which has two pools, one of which has diluted its thermal water with cold, so that at least was enjoyable.

The other solution is to drive up into the hills where there is often a breeze. If we take books and sit under a parasol in a cafe the afternoon can pass pleasantly. Il Rifugio on Monte Rua was particularly nice.

My favourite place to sit and read is the villa dei Vescovi. There you can sit in the loggia pretending to be an aristocrat and read with a superb view, and there are two further advantages. It’s free to holders of a National Trust card, and hardly anyone visits so that you can have this beautiful place to yourself.

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A Dismal May in Italy

The first of May was a miracle in retrospect because it was warm and sunny all day. That meant that my little stall of Cose Inglesi did good business and I enjoyed myself for a full 12 hours chatting and selling all sorts of things from marmalade to teapots, fish knives and forks to horse brasses.

Ever since then, the weather has been dull, depressing and damp. The locals are still dressed in their winter uniform of black and more black, and not venturing out of doors apart from to go shopping. Everyone is complaining, not remembering that in March they all complained that we needed more rain.

Not anticipating this gloom, we only brought summer clothes, and are now compromising with layers of shirts and cardigans. I only have one pair of shoes amongst the 6 pairs of sandals, and my thin raincoat doesn’t feel adequate.

What do you do in Italy when the weather is bad? Eat well! We keep on discovering new places to eat in the hills, family owned, full of atmosphere and great value. The latest is Da Nicola, improbably about a mile along a quiet narrow canal tow path, but an enormous barn conversion with seating for over a hundred people. We had their lunch time special at €13 including wine water and coffee and it was superb.

Conclusion? Even in poor weather life here in Italy is great!

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The Long Drive to Italy 2019

Over recent years it has saddened me to see how much the rural France I loved has grown shabbier and more abandoned. We drove though mile upon mile of La France Profonde where there were old agricultural buildings with collapsed roofs, more empty cottages for sale than lived in, and the vital shops which keep villages alive all closed.

We had chosen to spend the first night in St Mihiel in the Vosges because I had read about a wonderful piece of sculpture by Richier in a church there. I had also found a beautiful art nouveau B&B there so we had lots to look forward to. The house was indeed a treasure, but the taste of the new owners left much to be desired. There were some good pieces of original furniture, but the purple wall panels, festoons of drapery and weird light fittings didn’t do justice to the lovely rooms. Worst of all, the house felt very cold. There only seemed to be one place open for an evening meal, but luckily the Lion d’Or Pizzeria served unpretentious good food.

By contrast the next night at Weil am Rhein was comfortable and enjoyable. That location was chosen because it’s the home of the German Design Museum, which of course we visited, but I have to say, it reminded me more of a visit to Ikea. The hotel, called Ott’s, provided us with a great room and meal, as well as an excellent breakfast.

Then it was a slow drive to Bavaria on ordinary roads with views of the Alps. In Obammergau we found ourselves surrounded by shops selling wooden figures and cuckoo clocks, and after heavy German food, amazingly found a Chinese restaurant where we enjoyed crispy duck instead of sauerkraut.

As I write, we have the last day’s drive ahead of us, over the Brenner Pass and towards Verona. It will be good to be ‘home’ again, especially since this will probably be our last drive all the way there. Having had a horrendous accident on an Italian motorway 2 years ago, this long drive now seems too stressful. But we’ll enjoy the views today, and hope to get there safely with all the ‘Cose Inglesi’ safely packed in the boot ready for the market on May 1st.

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A Pirates’ Den in an Italian Village

Having been away from Italy for the whole of winter, it was a pleasure to return to familiar haunts. We swept up the accumulated drifts of dead insects and cobwebs, noting with relief that  the flat had survived another winter, and set off to see if anything had changed in the village.

Sadly, family run businesses continue to close, but one green grocer’s shop has now been taken over by two sisters and turned into a trattoria. Naturally we had to give it a try. It seems that the noisy drinking crowd from the wine bar on our corner, which had closed, had decamped to the bar in this trattoria, so it was busy with a lot of familiar figures as well as some new ones. These newcomers looked like a bunch of pirates, wearing exotic printed scarves around their heads and all of them with earrings and wide boots. Just to add a final touch of authenticity, the lively group sitting at the table next to us had a parrot with them. It perched on their shoulders, or on chairs. As it was on a lead, it also went for little walks across the floor. As far as I know, it doesn’t speak Italian or anything else, but it does offer baci (kisses) which I declined.

The food, incidentally, was very good, and great value. My tortellini stuffed with cream cheese and wild herbs in a walnut sauce was scrumptious! My minder had roast pheasant, what appeared to be the whole bird, so we took the remains back with us to make an excellent risotto the following day.

Life in Italy continues to be full of surprises.

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The prototype for Sir Les Patterson?

During a recent visit to see my sister in Australia, she announced that we were going to the Blue Mountains to stay in an old colonial hotel, the Carrington, in a time warp of Edwardian stained glass and heavy brown furniture. It was a delight. In the heat of February we had afternoon tea indoors rather than on the verandah, and were entertained whilst eating our sandwiches, scones and cakes, by a pianist who looked strangely familiar. At the grand piano sat a rather scruffy individual in a very stained suit, his tie covered with the remains of many meals. He smiled, to reveal buck teeth, and his shoulders were decorated with drifts of dandruff. The crowning touch, on closer inspection, was a distinct whiff of something unpleasant.

His repertoire was amazing. He knew songs from the great days of musicals, the classics from Mozart and Chopin to great opera arias, and would play requests of anything from any era.

The sniggering as we compared him with the great character created by Barry Humphries, Sir Les Patterson, ‘Australian Cultural Attaché’, gave way to admiration. He was a modest kindly man who had seen better times. Could Barry Humphries have been inspired by him to create his memorably odious character? We could hardly ask!

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The Wonders of Kyoto and the Bullet Train

I soon realised when doing my homework before we set off that it was Kyoto rather than Tokyo which was the place to visit, and set about booking tickets for the bullet train to get us there, congratulating myself on finding the means to do it with a 22% tourist discount. I had the sense to find a hotel near the station, luckily, as finding the way around with hardly any signs written in our alphabet was very difficult.

The bullet train was quite amazing. As we waited on our precise spot on the platform, a squadron of women dressed in pink overalls boarded the train with mops and buckets with precisely 2 minutes to clean it. They energed, bowed to the passengers, and we had precisely 2 minutes to get on. We left absolutely on time and sped past a snow clad Mount Fuji.

Our hotel offered free shuttle bus trips to several tourist sites, a help when time was short and getting around was a challenge. We took the bus, along with a Korean couple, to a village 10miles north of Kyoto and the driver (no English) indicated to our eventual surprise that he was not picking us up and we had to find our own way back. We didn’t let it worry us and set off to wander the streets and view the temple and the bamboo forest. After about 2 hours it began to rain and we started to think about returning to Kyoto, but how? Eventually we found a tiny tourist office and they explained how to find the local station with trains back to the city.

Kyoto station, as we had realised when we arrived on the bullet train, is enormous. Trains occupy the bottom 4 floors, then there are another 12 floors above. It is a marvellous piece of architecture, totally unlike any staion I have ever seen, with an escalator swooping through the upper floors through a chasm. It took some time to find our way out.

The sense of adventure on our holiday in Japan was like no other: quite exhilarating!

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Heat, health and hygiene: first impressions of Tokyo

It felt very odd arriving late at night in Tokyo when my body said it was lunchtime. Of course it was impossible to sleep, so we spent the our first hour trying to understand the rather threatening appearance of the lavatory. It has so many flashing lights, pipes and buttons that we hardly dare to sit on it, and in common with most public ones, has a permanently heated seat. (And so have the seats on the metro. It makes for an uncomfortable journey on a crowded train.)

The space age bathroom fits, I suppose, with the obsession with health and cleanliness which is evident in all areas of life. I have never seen so many people wearing face masks, both outside, where you might suspect it’s to avoid the worst excesses of pollution, but also indoors when meeting people at security at the airport, for instance, or on a reception desk in a museum. It all looks as if we’re part of some gigantic operating theatre.

It’s common practice to offer customers hot cloths to wipe hands and face before dining in a restaurant, but there are hand disinfectant dispensers at the entrances to almost all buildings. You wonder whether the Japanese of the future will learn to build up resistance to bugs and viruses.

But travel broadens the mind, they say, and life would be very dull if all people had exactly the same customs. At the moment, I’m enjoying Japan very much, but am surprised at how many contradictions there are. Watch this space!

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Planning the Grand Tour:Japan and Australia

It’s a long time since I saw my sister who lives in Australia, so it’s time for a great journey to the other side of the world. As I’ve always wanted to go to Japan, we’re going there first en route. Well, I know it’s not exactly on the way, but after the promise of a trip to Japan for my birthday when instead Bill bought tickets for New York (perfectly good, but not the same) this time, it’s all booked.

It seems a lot more complicated that I imagined. When I began diligently reading guide books, I discovered that Kyoto looks far more interesting than Tokyo where we were planning to stay for 5 nights. Instead, I’ve now booked for the bullet train and a night in Kyoto, but I’m not at all sure that I can negotiate the complexities of Tokyo station, or finding the correct place to stand on the platform when the train only stops for seconds – literally – and the numbers are only written in Japanese.

Thoughtful friends gave us books on Japanese for Christmas, and they provided a lot of fun trying to speak essential phrases, (not sure how useful “Don’t touch my moustache” will be!) as well as working out how to order dishes in restaurants. We’re determined to be independent, so will go out of the hotels for meals. Interestingly, our hotel is near the Tokyo Tower which is an exact copy of the Eiffel Tower, but nowhere near as high as the new Sky Tree which we won’t be investigating.

I’m looking forward to the museums, shopping, modern architecture, shrines and palaces and the food. It will be the most challenging adventure we’ve ever had, but luckily once in Australia we can recover and relax.

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Lunch with Venetian Nobility

If you were to drive through the tiny village of Vanzo and blinked, you would miss one of the most beautiful villas in the Veneto. It is the home of Count and Countess Giustiniani who are descended from a 17th century Doge of Venice, and who live in a white Palladian-style villa designed by Longhena who was the architect of the Salute Church on the Grand Canal in Venice.

I found myself there recently, invited for lunch to discuss the history of the family and villa so that I can write an article about it. We ate in the kitchen, the former wine cellar but now a lovely characterful space with brick columns and a huge fireplace, as well as a resident snake which curls around a pipe for warmth in winter.

The main rooms are frescoed, and in particular the winter garden room is stunning because it is painted as if you are in a loggia, looking though to a series of conical hills, clearly the Colli Euganei, extinct volcanoes about 10 miles away.

The gardens and avenue of lime trees take up a lot of time and effort. Count Lorenzo says they get up at 5 am in summer to work on the rose beds before the heat of the day.

Now they’re thinking of opening their home to the public. It will be a treat to visit, especially since visitors will get a personal guided tour including prosecco!

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